This blog will not be updated much for the foreseeable future but we hope that when this has settled down we will be able to share stories of our experiences in Bahrain.

International Women’s Day

International Women’s Day (8 March) is an occasion marked by women’s groups around the world. This date is also commemorated at the United Nations and is designated in many countries as a national holiday. When women on all continents, often divided by national boundaries and by ethnic, linguistic, cultural, economic and political differences, come together to celebrate their Day, they can look back to a tradition that represents at least nine decades of struggle for equality, justice, peace and development.  (From http://www.un.org/ecosocdev/geninfo/women/womday97.htm)

To all the wonderful women who have been part of my life, thank you.

To all the wonderful women who continue to fight for equality, justice, peace and development, kia kaha (Maori phrase meaning, ‘forever strong’).

I went to the ancient city of Bileed that is down on the shore adjacent to the city.  4,500 years of history mostly to do with the frankincense trade.  I then went to the Al Haffa market a bought us some frankincense.

Bileed looking towards musem

The city is separated from the coast by a large greenbelt of very fertile land used for coconuts, bananas and other fruit.  It is such a good idea.  I was impressed.  My Christian ancestors would be proud of me because I also went to see the tomb of Nabi Umran who is reputed to be the father of the Virgin Mary.

In the greenbelt. Coconuts, bananas, crops and fruit.

In the evening I went down to Haffa beach to tale some sunset photos.  The beautiful beach that had been abandoned at lunch time was teaming with people – fishing, playing soccer, picnicking and restaurants had set up tables on the sand.  Very charming.  I think I could live in Salalah for a while.

Salalah beach late afternoon.

At this time Al Jazeera reported anti-government protests in Bahrain.  For me the rest of the week was rather fraught because some really nasty things were happening back in Bahrain.

On the third day I went West towards Yemen.  When I got to Mughsail Beach I found that not only were the blowholes not blowing but there was no accommodation there, in spite of Lonely Planet’s info.  Beautiful beach though.  I went further on over some spectacular country and an amazing road.

Camels on the beach at Mughsail. 3 kms of beach and these were the only signs of life.

Mountain road looking east to Mughsail. Other side of valley was even more spectacular.

After 100 kms from Salalah I got tired of interminable rock and mountains and decided to turn back.  To get to my destination Raykhuyt I would have had to drive down 3000ft on a metal road so decided against that.  I stopped at Mughsail for a snack on the beach.  The beach looked lovely, and I was the only person on 3 km, but it had a litter problem and signs saying no swimming, so I did not stay long.

To get to my new accommodation, Salalah Beach Villas, I had to drive  down a rubble strewn street across sand and then onto the beach in front of the place.  It is very quaint, right on the beach with a fantastic view so I stayed there two nights.  I went for a swim at last.

On my last full day I went eastwards to Taqa, a fishing village.  After that I went up into the mountains to Wadi Darbat which is notable since in the Shareef [monsoon] it becomes a green valley of grass and trees, which the Omanis think is cool.  It has an amazing cliff waterfall that falls off the mountain hundreds of feet onto the desert below.  No water when I was there but hundreds of camels.  I then went further into the mountains looking for big caves and sinkholes but there were no signs and I missed out.  After that I went back to the coast to Mirbat,  a run-down place that had old buildings falling down.  I stopped on the beach and spoke with a group of teenagers who were on a trip from Salalah.  Camels wandering everywhere, in the desert and on the roads.

Camels at Wadi Darhbat. There were hundreds.

After that I went to Khori Rawr and Sumharam.  Sumharam is an ancient frankincense city [300BC to 500AD] that was in the most amazing location in an estuary that is now a nature reserve.  Many birds – flamingos, geese, herons, egrets etc.  It is such a superb location for a settlement I am surprised no-one lives there now.  After that back to town for a swim at the Salalah Beach Villas.  Salalah has this fantastic long white sand beach that bounds the city, maybe 30 kms long.

Salalah was lovely but I needed to return to Bahrain where Toni had been coping with some terrible events on her own.

So let me describe daily life this past week.  Everyone in Bahrain has been caught up in the upheavals here since the 14th February to a small or very large degree,   For us this has included hearing stories from students who have been dramatically involved in various events, to traffic disruptions.  The major problem is lack of reliable news and subsequent rumours which may or may not be true.   Polytechnic has been good at keeping us up to date as best they can and we trawl the internet, watch a variety a TV channels and talk to people to cobble together an approximation of what is going on.  There is very little information from the government.

Peaceful demonstrations in support of democracy and/or rallies in support of the royal family take place every day, both using the Bahraini flag as a symbol of their commitment to the country.  Thankfully the demonstrations have been violence-free for the last six days as the police and army have been absent.   We saw tanks being brought in last week and watched the military convoys returning to barracks from our roof at the weekend.   Other than much anxiety and concern about the country and our Bahraini friends, life continues almost as normal for expats.  The Polytechnic has closed early on a number of days due to fears of traffic disruption but otherwise it’s ‘business as usual’.  Students are coming in to register for the new semester and orientation begins next week.  Here are a few photos from Bahrain this week.

Car on its way to a pro-government rally

With my head down, pondering deeply, I wandered down the road and walked straight into a road sign that said ‘Reduce Speed Now’. So I did. Dusting myself off I managed to eventually cross all the lanes of traffic to be rewarded by the birds I’d walked to see. What was I thinking about so deeply? What to do if I can’t find a Masters in Psychotherapy that I can study on-line through a New Zealand or Australian university. I have exhausted all avenues so if anyone out there can make some suggestions, please do. Anyway, I didn’t find a solution to my problem but I did have a good lesson in the importance of mindfulness.

Seagulls and flamingos

Collecting seaweed

Men have been collecting the seaweed beside the bay for months and putting it into bags.  I don’t know if it’s an invasive weed they are trying to control or whether they are collecting it, for example to be processed as animal feed.

On the way home I viewed some of the apartments entering into the spirit of the Bahrain Flag campaign.  This was launched last year and various organisations are ‘taking up the flag’ (sorry, couldn’t resist that..  being alone for three days does things to your brain).

Manama, Feb. 6 (BNA) General Organisation for Youth and Sport (GOYS) President Hisham bin Mohammed Al Jowder inaugurated today at the organisation’s annual camp in Sakhir “Bahrain’s Flag” campaign which is being spearheaded by MedPoint company under the presidency of Shaikha Noora bint Khalifa Al Khalifa.
The drive, which will go on for one month and a half, aims to fly Bahrain’s flag on houses, clubs, youth centres and establishments as a symbol of patriotism. “Bahrain’s Flag” campaign seeks to epitomize the bright civilizational image of Bahrain in the era of His Majesty King Hamad bin Isa Al Khalifa and to highlight citizens’ patriotism,” Mr.Al Jowder said pointing out that the event coincides with the National Action Charter anniversary on February 14. He also hailed the efforts of MedPoint in carrying out the campaign nationwide lauding positive reaction to it which stands witness of loyalty to the nation and its leadership. Shaikha Noora described the move as a symbol of unity, self-esteem and loftiness for every Bahraini. “Holding Bahrain’s flag is an opportunity through which citizens can express their strong love for their nation,” she said. Valuable prizes have been earmarked for winners of the competition. People wishing to participate can register their names at the Youth Directorate. The inauguration ceremony featured folklore shows presented by youngsters under the theme “In Love For Bahrain” as well as a photo gallery depicting Bahrain’s historical and cultural heritage. At the end of the ceremony, Mr.Al Jowder and Shaikha Noora lifted Bahrain’s flag on GOYS camp.” (From Breitbart)

Poster for the 'Bahrain Love' campaign. Our apartment (blue) in background

Alex fossicking at the Isa Town second-hand market

Driving past A'Ali on Jess' last night

The last night Jesse was here, we went to the Ritz Carlton for a drink.  Through the gates with the guards checking the car for bombs and outside to shiver and watch the white flamingoes in the fading light.

Alex

Jess

Last night with Alex

Oceania (from Wikipedia)

According to the Housing and Population Census 2010 released yesterday, there are 1,295 Oceanians in Bahrain.  That’s us!  The figures generally paint a fascinating picture of Bahrain.  There are now more expats in Bahrain than Bahrainis and there are more male expats than the total female population. There are 481,175 expat males in Bahrain of which 433,756 are Asian.  (Most of the men from Asia work about 12 hours a day, 365 days a week as construction workers or doing other forms of manual labour.   Many of the women are housemaids.)

Here are some of the other figures:

Total population:  1,234,571

Bahraini:  5,68,399
South American:   474
North American :    4,146
European:   11,763
African: 19,548
Asian: 562,040
Other Arabs:  58,213
Other Gulf countries:   8,690

Another beautifully restored house nearby is Kurar House.  Here the courtyard is still open, as against the modern glass ceiling installed in Abdulla Al Zayed house over the old courtyard.

This house showcases the old traditional art of embroidered thobes with gold thread.  On certain days of the week, women demonstrate the art but unfortunately, they were not there when we were.  We could view many thobes in drawers and on the walls.  But it was getting late…

and it was time to go home past the fish and stray cats….